Wow those eyes!

New Year's is fast approaching. And as promised, here is your tutorial. However, you'll find I've included two variations instead of the one. I wanted to show you just how easy it is to make this look your own. You don't need to use the exact same colors I show you in these tutorials. Play with colors, wear what inspires you!

So without further ado, I bring you...

and...

For this tutorial I am not including the application of concealer and foundation. I realize not everyone understands how to achieve a "flawless" look with bases, but basic application of foundation (and concealers if needed) will allow anyone, no matter their proficiency level, to have a relatively even skin tone for their face. If enough people request it, I will do a concealer and foundation application post in the near future (but you have to request it for it to happen folks).

Step 1 : Start with clear or neutral primer for your eyeshadow. Primer prevents your look from running down your face. For this look, I used Too Faced Shadow Insurance. Apply the primer over your entire lid, from lashes up to your brow. I typically use my fingers for this on myself.

Step2 : Using a blackened shimmer navy blue (I used MAC's Deep Truth) and a pencil brush, gently pat the color along the crease of your lid. You are simply creating some shadow and outlining the cut crease for this look.

 (Notice I am not worrying about a perfect line, and the color is soft, not saturated.)

Step 3 : Taking a matte black and the same pencil brush, gently pat along the crease so the shadow rests hald on our dark blue, and half above the blue. Begin to build the saturation, but don't sweep the brush, just pat it so as to prevent raccoon eyes and fall out. We are defining the cut crease now. 

 

(Note that the black is blending into the dark shimmery blue and adding more depth to the crease.)

 

Step 4 : Taking a deep black with blue shimmer (I used NARS Night Flight for a reference) and the same pencil brush, apply this along the upper edge of the black by gently patting. This is adding in even more depth to the crease. 

(Do you see the difference between the above Deep Truth, and this black based shadow w/blue shimmer?)

 

 

Step 5 : Taking a silver base (I opted for a cream silver with NYX's Jumbo Eyeshadow Pencil in Pots 'n Pans), apply this to the ball of your eyelid. Be sure not to place the silver beyond the line of the crease, do not blend this into the dark crease you just created. 

 

 

Step 6 : Taking a medium purple (I used Sugarpill's Poison Plum), and a small shader brush begin to apply above the darkened crease. Start on the outer corner of your eye (this will be the widest part of the purple), and move across, blending just slightly into the upper edge of your crease, keeping mind to gradually decrease the width of the purple as you move towards the inner corner, eventually tapering down towards your inner corner. Be sure to blend up lightly so the purple fades into nothing the closer you move towards the brow bone. If you are unfamiliar or haven't practiced blending much, use a light hand here, and add saturation as you go. It's much easier to add, than to remove at this point in the process. :)

 

 

 

Step 7 : Taking a shimmery white with silver/pale blue undertones (some whites can appear more silver, some more yellow, just compare and find the one that looks more blue/silver compared to it's counterparts), and a large blending brush, sweep this along the upper edge (the palest part where you blended the purple up to) of the purple and up to the brow bone to highlight. Try not to go with something glittery, just a soft shimmer is sufficient (even a matte would be good!)

 

 (I opted for Lime Crime's Top Hattie Magic Dust, but above is a great example of a pressed shadow with similar look and it's cheap in price, found at your local drugstore/Fred Meyers/etc., and made by Wet 'n Wild!)

 

Step 8 : Here comes the fun! Taking a soft silver glitter with a hint of rainbow shimmer (I am using NYX's Glitterati Pallet, the bottom two on the left!) you will apply this to the ball of your lid. Be sure to keep the glitter from the bottom edge of the crease and below. You want this to be a fun, flirty pop of sparkle, not a disco ball. This can be done several ways. Two of my favorite are as follows:

Method 1 : Use a cream based, eye safe glitter, and simply apply using your fingers by patting gently over the desired application area. (NYX and Wet 'n Wild both have some awesome cream glitter pallets!)

Method 2 : Use a loose glitter (for your own safety and to prevent injury to your eye please make sure any glitter you use in your eye area is in fact eye safe!)  and a sealer/glitter glue/fixative safe for cosmetic/eye use. I tend to prefer LA Splashes glitter adhesive myself, but there are many out there. NYX, Lit, Glamourdoll Eyes, and several others make awesome glitters that are safe for use around the eyes.

(I applied the silver holographic glitter to the center of my eye, and used the darkened holographic glitter along the edge where the silver meets the dark crease.)

 

 

Step 9 : Using a black eyeliner, line your bottom water line (the liner should be place above your bottom lashes, not underneath). Take a silver liner (a white could work as well), and liner below your bottom lashes. Take the silver (or white) liner and line about 1/3 of an inch along the eyeshadow of your eye's outer corner. (You can see how I did this better with the Black and Silver look in the first picture I posted. Notice how the black liner from the bottom follows along the eyeshadow for a tiny bit?)

 

 (I used Urban Decay 24/7 Liner in Perversion, and Milani Easy Liner Glitter in Silver)

Step 10 : At this point you can clean up any fall out with a makeup wipe or cotton ball with makeup remover. If there is any loose glitter on your face, use some tape to get it off. Go ahead and put on concealer, foundation, setting powder, etc. And then put on your choice of mascara. Be sure to curl those lashes so they stand out. If you wish to, you can also apply some elegant falsies too! 

 

Step 11 : Apply your blush. I opted for a soft matte pink from my Coastal Scents 10 pan blush pallet. Try to keep it soft, not super dramatic. 

 

 

 

Step 12: Apply a nude with some peachy or pink undertones, and a soft neutral pink gloss. I selected MAC's Blankety lipstick and MAC's Dazzleglass in Soft Dazzle (from 2010's Christmas Tartan Plaid collection). 

 

You can go any direction you wish with the lipstick. I went with a fun magenta with the black and silver look. It's up to you how much color you want. The more color, the more dramatic your look!

 

 A soft, yet dramatic eye with an elegant nude lip.

Or a vampy, flirty magenta with a fierce and bold eye!

 

So give it a shot. Don't be afraid to try out new colors you never thought you'd ever wear. Anyone can wear color, and anyone can wear bold eyes! 

Have fun with makeup. It doesn't always have to be about the perfect liner, or the right shade of lipstick. It's about being creative, doing something for yourself, and exploring your artistic side (and yes, everyone has an artistic side). 

Rachel's Pro-tip!

Ever wonder how makeup artists create that rigid, straight line for the eyeshadow on the outer corner of the eye?

Use tape! Apply tape at an angle, starting from the outside corner of the eye, and shift it up towards your hair. The angle can be as sharp as you want! Apply to both sides and double check to be sure they are as even as possible, then apply your look! When you're done, gently pull the tape away and VOILA! An edgy shadow look with minimal effort!

Tutorial for the week of 11/13-11/19 The Glam Eye

Our first tutorial!

The holidays are a perfect time to rock a glam eye with some sparkle and color. I'm introducing both to you here.

Let's get right into it, shall we?

Skip putting on your base and foundation right now. Anytime you are using dark colors or shadows with potential for fall out you will want to forgo your base and foundation until after you've applied your eye makeup. This will eliminate the need to reapply your face.

Start with an eye primer. This can be any sort of eyeshadow primer.

In this case I used MAC Paint Pot in Painterly to eliminate dark circles and give my lids a "clean slate".
Use this from lashes to eyebrows.

Create a dark grey base. I elected to use NYX Jumbo Eyeshadow Pencil in Black Bean as it offers even coverage and great control of the color. I can blend it down from it's super dark black into a muted dark to medium grey. This will go from lashes up to your crease (Where your lid folds. You can find your crease by opening your eye, the fold while your lid is open is the crease.)

Take a gold color now, and using a paddle brush, or larger angled brush (or your finger if you lack brushes) and apply to your lid, this should go from lashes to crease. Any gold will work, though, you'll want to go for a more vibrant gold over a muted frosty one.

Now, take a matte black (no sparkle or sheen) on a pencil brush (a small fluffy angled brush would work as well), and begin to work this along your crease, starting at your outer V (the "V" shaped portion of your eyelid where lashes end and your crease begins) and working inwards. Don't drag the black all the way down to your inner tear duct, it should gradually fade as it moves across your crease.

Using the same brush, take a golden brown (or a soft copper if you wish. You're wanting a reddish brown with golden undertones if possible), and begin to work this along the upper edge of the matte black. You'll want the two to blend into each other, but don't blend too hard or it will turn muddy. Follow the same line as the black, the brownish copper should be creating some depth.

Taking a very soft and light white gold, take this and apply it along the brow bone, blending gently into that golden brown just applied, using a fluffy blending brush.

Now this is part is up to you. It adds even more sparkle and glam to an already sexy glamorous eye. You can use eye primer, though I prefer to us LA Splash adhesive for this process....GLITTER!

Taking the primer or LA Splash adhesive (do NOT use anything other than recommended eye products for applying glitter to your lids!), apply a small amount to the ball of your lid.

Taking a cosmetically safe (this is important or you risk scratching your cornea or worse!) glitter in gold, apply over the primer/adhesive, dabbing gently, not swiping. Use your finger as it's easier to control the results and allows you better maneuverability.

Be sure to curl your lashes and apply your favorite mascara. Don't worry about lining the lower lash line. You want this to make your eyes shine and pop!

Apply a soft pinky blush, or if you are more darker in skin tone a soft berry. Use a pinkish nude lipstick and gloss, keeping the attention on your gorgeous eyes!

Bonus Section:

 What sort of colors of eyeliner does a person use so it looks nice and soft, not so intense?

 This was the original question, well, ad lib a bit of course. 

To answer this, it really depends on your eyes, and the shape of them. Anyone can wear any color of eye liner, and any color of eyeliner can be toned down to appear softer, instead of a kohl rimmed eye that makes many of us think Vamp or Gothic.

The trick, when using the darker colors for lining is application. Lining along the water line (the rim of the bottom eyelid, ABOVE the lash line) is going to be pronounced and intense with black and dark browns. But there is a way to soften this! Smudging is one way. Taking either a smudger or soft small angled brush and "smudging" the liner so the line is not as defined. This can also be done to soften liner along the upper lash line as well, to gain the same effect.
But it's also important to keep in mind that hue and shade count! The darker the liner, the more intense the look. Many companies are now offering a wide array of the same sort of color, but in different hues and brightness. If you like the brown liners, but find that dark brown liner you have in your makeup drawer is just too much, even when you smudge it, perhaps it's time to hunt down a bit more lighter shade. Urban Decay (though a bit pricey for some of us) has a massive range of fantastic eyeliners and can be found at the local Ulta or Sephora. Last I checked they had at least 8 different shades of brown liners, all with various undertones and shades. And they aren't the only cosmetic company going this route.